Kelford has applications to meet your aggressive street set up or full-out race car! Every BC camshaft profile has been prototyped and dyno tested for proven horsepower results prior to placed into mass production.
By grinding cores in high volume, Brian Crower, Inc. Quality at an affordable price. Max-Tuff utilizes unique, synthetic molecules that adhere to metal surfaces to create a formidable, load-bearing physical barrier between surfaces.
These are CNC-machined from T6 billet aluminum and AEM's anodizing on the gear teeth is lab-test proven as the hardest anodizing process on the market. Includes two M12 x 1. You won't find a better quality stud on the market from any other source. Centerless ground, heat treated prior to thread rolling and machining, and are nominally rated at , psi. L19 is a very high strength material compared with standard ARP headstuds and is capable of delivering a clamp load at , psi.
It is primarily used in short track and drag racing applications where inertia loads exceed the clamping capability of ARP Chromoly, Black Oxide. Price is for one washer.
Universal application. They're the only company that has consistently made big brake kits available for our cars with several custom options.
We highly recommend them for any Big Brake kit. You'll get a kit that performs as well as any kit on the market at a better price. They use Wilwood calipers exclusively and will work with you to get you the best kit for your needs. Roll Cage A roll cage is a safety feature but it also stiffens the chassis and reduces flex in the suspension. Most DSMers will only be hitting the track for open track events and lapping days and won't have much of a need for a full cage.
But if you're going to compete in Time Trials you'll want to at least consider a point roll bar. Most racing series will require a full cage for Wheel to Wheel racing anyway. Do a search for "Eclipse" in their search box and you should find 4-point, 6-point, 8-point, and point kits available, pre-cut and pre-bent to fit a 1g DSM. These will get you a better tune using DSMlink. The route you go will determine the type of intake pipe you'll need.
Ignition When running high boost at the track you'll need to run some good spark plugs and wires at the very least. If you have money to burn the elegant solution these days is to swap out the coilpack and wires for a Coil-On-Plug system.
Cooling Running a turbo car at the track will create havoc on your cooling system. There is so much heat under the hood that you'll be fighting hard to keep water temps at a reasonable level - you really don't want them getting above degrees. The first is to put a vent on your hood to allow hot air to escape. You don't want to just cut a hole in your hood either, as that won't really allow air to escape unless the car is stopped or moving slowly.
You want to get an actual vent and rivet it to the hood. We suggest the Carbontrix vent. The next thing you'll want to do is get a thicker-than-stock aluminum radiator.
The only company that makes a thick radiator for our cars is PWR , but you'll have to contact them and ask for it specifically, not the one they normally sell. Aside from that you can try out the popular techniques like Water Wetter and other cooling fluids. Be sure to pick up an aftermarket water temp gauge too.
Oil cooling may also become an issue. Those who don't have a can change from an internal oil cooling system to an external cooler. You can find some good Setrab oil coolers on eBay for a decent price. Then just pick up some -8 or braided line, AN fittings, metric adapters for the oil filter housing, and a oil filter housing. You'll need a good oil temp gauge too.
Engine Management If you're going to be road racing you'll need to ditch the S-AFC and step up to something more reliable and accurate for engine management. But you'll need a good AEM-certified tuner to get your car tuned properly. Along with your EMS solution you'll want some gauges to help monitor the engine.
An EGT exhaust gas temperature gauge and probe will allow you to monitor the exhaust temperature exiting the engine. Extremely high temps generally translate into a lean condition and can be catastrophic. This will tell you exactly how rich or how lean the car is running, allowing you to adjust the fuel curve accordingly.
Boost Control Chances are you probably already have a boost controller. If you're going to be competing be sure to read your series rules about boost control and what they allow.
Exhaust System To make any type of decent power you'll want to address the entire exhaust system. Everything from the exhaust manifold, O2 sensor housing, downpipe, catalytic convertor, and cat-back exhaust? The exhaust manifold and O2 sensor housing will likely depend on the type of turbo you plan to use. You can port a Mitsubishi exhaust manifold and O2 sensor housing or go with aftermarket pieces. Ditch the cat and run a straight pipe at the track.
Fuel Delivery The stock fuel pump will not be able to supply the needed fuel for anything over 16psi of boost. You'll want at least a Lph fuel pump to ensure you have enough fuel in case you want to raise the boost.
It's also a good idea to re-wire the fuel pump for consistent fuel pressure. If you go with a lph pump, you'll need an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Larger injectors will also be necessary if you're upgrading to a 16G turbo or larger.
Many also change out the fuel rail to something larger and replace the stock feed line from the tank to the rail with larger stainless steel braided -6 or -8 line with AN fittings.
Turbo The turbo choice for road racing isn't going to be anything huge. Most road racers will use either a 16G variant, a trim variant, or something in between. If you're really looking for top speed you might step up to a GT30 but you might be giving up a little bit of spool time.
The best option if you go with a trim or larger would be to go dual ball bearing to keep your spool times lower, as this will help you get back into boost faster coming out of a turn. Intercooler The side mount intercooler will not be able to cool the amount of air flow needed to keep up with the demands road racing, especially if you're using a larger-than stock turbo. This install is pretty involved, especially if you choose a kit that routes the piping around the sides of the radiator.
Most kits require some trimming of the steel bumper and some dremeling of the plastic bumper cover. Most "street" kits will do okay but you might want to consider a "race" kit which will have a larger core for better cooling characteristics. If you don't you'll be fighting a losing battle with cooling issues once the FMIC goes in. Check Extreme Turbo Systems for intercooler kits. Engine Exhaust Exterior Ignition Intake. Engine Intake. Quick view Details. Add to Cart. Choose Options.
Quick view. Compare Selected. We also have a plug and play SD harness too. This is the only input that's compatible with the speed density logic inside the ECU.
Or, more likely, you'll want to use those wires off the MAF harness under the hood since that's where the IAT sensor is actually being installed. The IAT sensor has two wires coming out of it. The other wire should be connected to the ECU's sensor ground. This can also be pulled from the MAF connector under the hood. It is absolutely better to have one, no question about it. But if you find yourself in the situation where you simply can't get an IAT sensor installed but you need to enable speed density operation anyway, go ahead.
You wire up a pressure sensor much like you wire up any other aftermarket sensor for logging. The details of which can get complicated because there are several different inputs you can use and several different sensors.
Our Aftermarket Sensor Install page is a good starting point. That page links to several other useful pages, including this example install of a GM 3-bar sensor on the 2G MDP input. If you have our SD cable then, of course, you can just plug it straight up; no wiring or soldering required.
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