The entire process is computer controlled and tests manual and automatic shifting, as well as pressure and several other parameters in every gear. This fully furnace brazed lockup converter feature a inch top, stator, and turbine allowing it to stall to 3, rpm. However, it also retains a inch lockup plate which allows for a stronger lockup converter with a high stall.
This converter should stall 3, rpm, giving us a little more punch off the starting line. With the upgrades installed, and the proper torque converter and cooling system in place this combination is good for up to hp.
Thats good enough to get many cars into the 10 second zone on the quarter mile, while still letting them cruise with overdrive on the ride to and from the track. Also included in the kit is a new transmission cooler, new adjustable throttle-valve cable kit, and new dipstick and dipstick tube.
Since the engine was out of the original Project Rehab was to be transferred to the chassis that replaced the first car, we opted to go ahead and bolt the new transmission to it while it was on the shop floor, then install the two as an assembly.
The steps are similar whether performing this job in or out of the car. With the car raised, or the engine on the ground, replacement can begin.
Whether this job is done in or out of the car, the process to disassemble starts with the exhaust. The mid-pipe must be remove and if a car is equipped with long-tube headers, those will need to come out as well.
From here, the starter can be removed as well as the inspection cover on the bottom of the bellhousing. With our old transmission stripped and detached from the engine we can now reverse the process and install our new StreetFighter AOD.
At the rear differential, the flange and the driveshaft are marked so they can be lined up together properly and the four driveshaft bolts are removed. A drain pan is placed under the rear of the transmission to catch fluid draining out when the driveshaft is pulled out.
We used a plastic tail-shaft plug to stop this flow of fluid; these can be bought at most parts stores for a few dollars. It is not necessary to drain the transmission fluid or even remove the pan, but it is advisable to drain the torque converter. With the ignition coil, and the battery disconnected, the engine is rotated by hand until the converter drain plug is located, then removed.
This will prevent making a mess with a large spill if the converter separates from the transmission during removal. Also, you do not need to remove the pan to remove the transmission, and that step can make more of a mess than be of help. Rotating the engine we located the first of the four torque converter studs and nuts. Each nut was then removed to disconnect the torque converter from the engine. The retaining bracket for the converter must be removed. Center and Right: Since TCI dyno tests their transmissions prior to shipping they block off all fluid passages before shipping.
We saved these plugs for use in capping the old transmission. Bottom Row: Left: Our old transmission mount had deteriorated and was literally falling apart as we removed it. Center: The metal on our transmission cross-member was so deteriorated that it sounded like crumpling paper when we probed it with a screw driver.
Right: To remedy this we're installing a new cross-member and polyurethane mount. Do not use a solid transmission mount as the transmission case is not strong enough to withstand the torquing forces and will crack, or break.
Under the hood, the TV cable is disconnected form the throttle body and separated from the throttle brackets. We snaked this out with the old transmission and TCI included a replacement. From here, we also disconnected the shift linkage. This involves prying off the old bushing. If you plan to reuse the stock cable and linkage, be sure to note how it all goes together.
Snapping a picture with a smartphone or camera is a good idea here. The speedometer cable is next. This requires a box wrench to disconnect and remove the speedometer sensor or gear from the transmission. On the opposite side of the transmission, the two cooler lines are also disconnected. With all of these connections removed, the next step is dropping the transmission cross member.
Using a jack to support the transmission,we carefully remove the nuts and bolts that secure the cross-member. Drivetrain Tools. Best Sellers. Support Technical Resources. Need help finding what you are looking for? Company About Us. What's New. Warranty Registration. CPG Nation. Warranty Policy. Privacy Policy. Statement of Remanufacture. Home Torque Converters. View as Grid List. Show 12 15 Wish List Compare. Shop Now. Add to Watchlist. People who viewed this item also viewed.
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