Large Format Tile Mortars. Polymer-Modified Thin-Set Mortars. Rapid Setting Mortars. Non-Modified Mortars. Thick Bed Mortar. Chemical Resistant Epoxy Mortars. Single-Component Grout. Pre-Mixed Grout. Caulk and Sealant. Grout Additives. Grout Colorant. Problem Solvers. Stone Restoration.
Travertine Repair Kit. Cut and Mark Tools. Grout and Finish Tools. Moisture Control. Product Information. Specification Details. Grout Colors. Installation Systems and Solutions. Any other painted surface should be primed with a basic primer, then prepared by wiping down with a degreaser.
This allows the compound to attach to the surface and not slide off or bubble. If you have removed wallpaper from a wall, prime the surface again with an oil-based primer. Part 2. Joint compound—sometimes called sheetrock "mud"—is very fine dust mixed with water. There are two typical choices for skim-coat materials: Pre-mixed joint compound comes ready to apply to the surface.
After application, it gradually dries out. As such, you can add more water to the mixture to extend your working time. If you have never applied a skim coat before, you may find it easiest to use a ready-to-use pre-mixed product.
Setting compounds are like concrete: they don't dry out. Instead, they undergo a chemical reaction which makes them "set. Do not use spackling. Spackling is often mistakenly used as a skim-coat.
However, spackling is harder to spread, more difficult to sand, and is best used on wood trim to fill large imperfections. Gather your tools. These could include: A ladder or scaffolding to reach high places without fatigue. This is especially important if you are applying a skim coat to a high wall or ceiling. A large five gallon bucket for mixing the skim coat. A metal mixing rod that attaches to a drill. This will make it easier to mix large amounts of compound. A mud pan. The skimmer plate.
This holds the prepared compound. You will hold the skimmer plate in one hand—or place it somewhere within easy reach—while you apply the skim coat.
You can use a paint roller or a flat, trowel-like "compound applicator". The applicator should be 6" wider than the area being smoothed. Use a 12" applicator for leveling. Mix "quick set" according to package directions.
A setting compound "quick set" comes in bags, and you must mix it with water before using it. The bags have a time limit printed on them—often 20, 45, or 90 minutes—which indicates the working time under average conditions. Heat shortens working time and cold lengthens it. Mix your compound in small batches: if you mix too much at one time, it will start to dry out in the bucket before it can be applied. The benefit of a setting compound is that it can be sanded or re-coated as soon as it sets.
This also means that you have know exactly where you will apply it and be ready, because as it stiffens it cannot be re-wetted. Setting compounds are much more durable than "mud" and will not come apart when wet. They are ideal for walls and ceilings in places that have been exposed to moisture, such as bathrooms and kitchens. A glop of setting compound will set even if dropped in water. Stir a pre-mixed joint compound to loosen it for application.
Stir a bucket of ready-made joint compound with a paddle attached to an electric drill. Mix until the compound is completely smooth, adding water as needed. The resulting mixture should have the texture of custard. Add any tint that you want to use.
You can tint many joint compounds by adding tint while you are mixing. Find tint products in a hardware store. You can also add sand or other rough materials if you want a certain texture embedded in your coat. When mixing, start by adding the least amount of water called for. Start slow with the drill until the liquid is mixed, then gradually increase the speed.
You can slowly add more liquid if you need to thin the compound. Run an image or video search for "mixed joint compound" to see what your compound should look like when "ready.
Remember not to pull the drill mixer out of the compound while the drill is running, or you may have flecks of mud flying everywhere. It is critical to make sure there are no lumps in your ready-to-apply compound.
If you do come across a lump of dry compound during application, you can probably smash it into the surrounding wet compound.
If the lump is too big to crush, remove it with a small putty knife. Ask someone to help out. The five gallon bucket needs to be cleaned each time you use it, or else little pieces of dry compound will carry over to your new batch. Your helper can transfer the prepared compound from the bucket into a smaller container. From this container, use either your applicator or a smaller trowel to move the compound to the mud pan.
Then, your helper can start cleaning the bucket and preparing the next batch of compound. Part 3. Prepare to apply the first skim coat. Decide how thick you want the coat, or determine the type of finish that you want from completely smooth to rough and textured. If you are right-handed, you will be holding the skimmer plate in your left hand and the compound applicator in your right hand.
You may have to adjust your technique to get the desired thickness and texture. You can always add more compound to the surface, but once dry, it is messy and time-consuming to remove. Apply the first scoop. Mound the compound up at one end of a repair area, then pull it across the surface with the compound applicator. Start in one corner of the wall, and work down from the highest point.
If you are skimming a ceiling, start at an edge and work towards the center. Keep going over that until the area is covered, and try to get it as smooth as possible so you won't have to sand as much when you're finished.
If you have never skimmed before, try practicing on a piece of scrap drywall. This way, you can get used to the applicator and the weight of the compound, and you can see what it will look like when dry. Keep spreading the skim coat over the repair area. Once you have applied the first scoop, take another and work out of the spot you just finished. Be thorough—make sure that each new scoop overlaps with the last.
Pull the coat in different directions to even out bumps and valleys regardless of how they are aligned. A repair area isn't flat: it is a low, smooth mound, made to look flat.
Shine a light along the surface to identify areas where the wall is sunken, and mark those spots with pencil as you go. Patience is key, but you must work efficiently so that the mixed compound does not dry out before you finish.
Give yourself enough time to complete an entire section. Try not to stop in the middle of a surface, as blending a dried section with wet compound can be difficult. Do not try to rush the application by taking a larger scoop.
This may make your arms tired, it may lead to compound falling off your skimmer, and you may need to go over the area later to remove excess compound. Allow the first layer to set for several hours or overnight. Smooth fiberglass repair tape onto cracks and joints. Let the surface set or dry out before you apply the next coat. Do not apply excess material or try to finish with one coat—this can only be fixed by demo or lots of sanding.
It is better to do many thin coats than an uneven one that needs repair. Part 4. Sand the walls. Use a fine grit sandpaper to to smooth out any rough edges. If you marked low areas with a pencil, you can blend them into the high areas to ensure that the next coat will bond fluidly to the surface.
Apply a second layer of drywall mud. This time, work in a horizontal direction, perpendicular to the first coat. Allow to dry. Sand once more, and run your hands over the surface to feel out imperfections that you can't see with the naked eye. Repeat as necessary until the surface is smooth. With each new coat, switch direction from horizontal to vertical to ensure even coverage of the drywall. Make sure that you allow each coat ample time to dry before you apply the next coat. Clean the room thoroughly when you are done.
Vacuum the walls and make sure that there is no remaining plaster dust. Apply a primer before painting or hanging wallpaper. Did you know you can get expert answers for this article? Unlock expert answers by supporting wikiHow. Patrick Coye Painting Specialist. Patrick Coye. Support wikiHow by unlocking this expert answer. Not Helpful 0 Helpful 0.
0コメント